After a crazy trip to Able Tasman and that intensive bio lab, I was pretty ready for a break. A majority of my friends were tramping to Muller Hut, but Damon and I decided to pass. So we planned a day trip to Arthur’s Pass for some sweet day trips. The plan was drive to the Pass where we did a short hike or two then after lunch go to Castle Hill for some sweet boulders and to check out the site where the filmed the end battle scene for Narnia. Then after that go to Cave Stream which is a kilometre long underground stream that you can walk through. On our way out of my flat, I went to check the weather and Damon said “it’ll be nice, let’s just head out”. Infamous last words my friend.

Castle Hill
The beginning of the drive was great. I love NZ scenery and I don’t think that it’ll ever get old. Seeing the end of the Southern Alps looming over the Canterbury plains with those golden rolling hills between us, it’s amazing. But as we got close to Arthur’s Pass, the weather became more and more dismal looking. Then the rain started. And by the time we were in the village of Arthur’s Pass the wind had picked up. And we’re talking whip open your car door wind. It was brutal. But we went to the visitors centre (by the way, I have my word in NZ English for papers so I don’t get docked points for ‘miss-spellings’, and my spell check was angry and spelling it center, just an interesting tid-bit) to check out some short wanders in the area. The lady looked at us like we were crazy. This is the following conversation...
Me: Hey there, we’d like to do some simple wanders, any suggestions?
Park Ranger: *cocks her head and raises her left eyebrow* Well, there is some nasty weather going through, mostly a day to catch up on sleep or a movie...
Me: *nods, states intently*
PR: Alright, well we aren’t really letting people doing climbs above the tree line today because there is an electrical storm warning, and these tracks (wide sweep of the hands) are closed because of potential flooding... and yes... this one *points to Devil’s Punch Bowl Falls* would be your best bet. But you’ll get pretty wet from the rain.
Me: Wet? That’s alright, we’re planning on doing cave stream later today and we’ll be pretty soaked after that.
Male Park Ranger from rear room: Oh you won’t be doing Cave Stream.
Me: Why not?
PR: Well you can... *dramatic pause* ... if you want to die.
Me: Umm... wow, okay? *Damon and I give them confused looks*
Park Rangers: *Give us the ‘are they stupid’ look, look at each other then continue*
PR: Well considering it’s a one kilometre (another spelling correction) stream, that’s completely under water, with max ceiling of hardly 2.5 meters in some places,
Male PR: and we’re expecting 250mm (that’s 10 inches) of rain today that will be draining into this small enclosed space,
PR: in addition don’t forget to the rain that’s draining from all the Eastern slopes of the Pass,
Male PR: you’ll more than likely drown.
Damon and I just stare at each other, eyebrows raised, I take a look at the map, then to him, and we just nod and say thanks as we head out.
With our hopes of being ace spelunkers dashed, we retreated back to our Green Corolla Hatchback called “The Lime” to sort ourselves out. Damon was pretty pumped and was working really hard to get me excited. And it worked; I eventually convinced myself that it would be totally awesome and that even though I was guaranteed to get wet with my apparently non-waterproof jacket, it would be worth it. Why not, let’s do this thing.
So I went to the bathroom to change out of my jeans (cotton kills kids, remember that) and when I came back, this is the scene that unfolds:
Damon: *with map in his hands looking way to excited* Liz, we can totally make it to the West Coast. We’re half way there!
Me: *giving him the what in the world are you thinking look* What? Are you serious?
Damon: Yea, I mean, we’re half way there! *points out our position to the map, looks up at me all excited* We can just do the walk and be there by 3!
Me: Umm...
Damon: ....
Me: Sure, I mean, why not. We have the car for the day? Right?
So off we went. Hello Devil’s Punchbowl, goodbye Cave Stream and certain death. The ‘hike’ to Bridal Veil Falls was really easy. Lots of stairs, but because of its popularity it was very well maintained. So, I know there are a lot of ways to use chicken wire, but the Kiwi’s certainly have utilized it in more ways than I could imagine. Lining their stairs and bridges is ingenious. Saved my life a few times I’ll tell you that.
Devil’s Punchbowl Fall is a 131 meters (430 feet) water fall. Pretty intense. You can see it from the road and like I said, we saw it for a majority of the accent and descent from Avalanche Peak a few weeks prior. Right before we got to the viewing platform, I decided that I wanted to check it out from some smaller falls (maybe 4 or 5 meters tall) right before the platform. Damon took it a step further and jumped out onto some rocks. Then (slipping, sliding and almost dying) skipped over more rocks to the others side. Now after watching him do this, and keeping my less than graceful ways in mind in addition to the fact I was wearing old tennis sneakers and that it was raining. I just accepted that there was a %110 chance that I would end up in the river. So I beat fate to it and just walked right through the water between rocks. I figured that at least this way I would avoid a painful and potentially dangerous fall and take my losses. It was great fun, at one point I was pretty much in the waterfall. Thankfully my jacket was waterproof enough to keep my camera dry!

The fall itself was absolutely gorgeous. The Maori people named it _________ after flax weaving. Much of the water doesn’t even make it to the bottom as you can see. It was definitely worth the wet walk to see it.

So after drying off, we set down 73 towards the West Coast. No plans really to what we wanted to see, I had a free guide book from a tiny restaurant, but that was it. We were being spontaneous today and would see where we ended up.

Our first stop was Death Corner. Pretty nice view of the road ahead; notably the gorge and some sweet bridges. The drive overall was pretty uneventful. We just listened to music, talked and enjoyed the views. I started to take pictures of the billions of one way bridges that we drove over. Fell asleep for a little. But when I woke up, I saw a sign that said “Londonderry Rock, 800 meters to the left”. I looked at Damon and said “Let’s do it!” So he swung the car onto the dirt road and there we went! Before we got to the rock, we saw a sign “Londonderry Rock, The 3,000 kilo boulder”. We were in for a treat for sure. As the Lime rumbled down the pot hole dotted gravel road, I got ready to go with my leaky rain jacket, jandles, hat and of course, the camera. The path to the boulder was really neat, a simple walk that we jogged down. The West Coast is heaps rainier than the South because of the mountains in the middle. The forest here is fern dominated, there is moss everywhere and you could swear you were in the Congo or some other generic rainforest. It was surreal.

Then as we continued on, around a corner, our path was blocked by a house sized rock. It was just sitting there unceremoniously. No plaque, label, sign. Just oodles of graffiti. It looked like it was about 30ish feet high. I have no idea how wide though. When we got back, we found a little sign that had some legends about it. Obviously it was from a glacier, but it was partially buried originally (in the 1800’s) but during the gold rush, it was dislodged from sluice water. Apparently when it fell, it shook the town of Londonderry so much that the post office clock stopped. Impressive.
After our fun little detour we headed on down the road to the coast. When we got there, we took a quick detour to the coast. We saw the starting line of the Speights Coast to Coast race. A crazy 243 multi-sport race from the Tasman Sea to the Pacific Ocean. To be honest, I didn’t really know what I saw until a bit ago, I thought they were just some sweet totem pole things. Oh well. So it was raining pretty considerably, and the road to be beach didn’t look Lime friendly, so we turned around and beat feet to Hokitika. We had two choices for Westcoast towns, either Hokitka or Greymouth which could be translated to this. We could either go to the old mining town in Greymouth or to Sock World in Hokitka. Guess which one we picked. Go ahead, I dare you. I bet you’ll get it wrong.
SOCK WORLD!
Yup. Sock World.
So we pulled into Hokitka and parked. Checked out some Greenstone stores and some other stores. I think I should take this moment to talk about Greenstone. People get really confused because these green rocks are called Greenstone, Jade and Pounamu. Greenstone is the Pakeha (white person or non Maori) word for Pounamu. And Pounamu is Jade found in New Zealand. So what’s the difference between Jade and Greenstone? Think of it this way. All Bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon because bourbon is whiskey that comes from Tennessee. So all Greenstone is Jade, but not all Jade is Greenstone because Greenstone is Jade from New Zealand. Brilliant!
We then made our way to Sock World. We were pumped. And Sock World was awesome. It was basically two rooms. The front one with merchandise and the other one with a bunch of weird machines. We really had no idea what was going on until the shopkeeper came in and showed us. There was also a machine that processed raw wool into yarn. Then the shopkeeper showed us the machines that her boss handmade. Apparently she is the ONLY person in the world who makes these. CRAZY. They go for 2,000ish NZ bucks a pop. I asked what kind of market there was for these expecting not so many... but yea. 600 units sold last year. To the US.... alone. That doesn’t include her world market. BANANAS.

The $600 machine
But it gets better. The shopkeeper was insane. Somehow we, well, just me, got on the subject of kids? Yea, I have no idea either. How we started talking about that blows my mind, I have been running over the conversation a million times in my head trying to figure out the lead up, but nothing. So anyway this is what she says. **Disclaimer, this is verbatim from her, none of these are my words or ideas but for the sake of the story they are uncensored, children be warned!**
Shopkeeper: Ah yea, I hated being a mother. Being a grandmother is so much better.
Me: Why?
SK: My daughter was a little b*tch.
Me: *eyes wide, mouth slightly agape*
SK: *does not notice mine or Damon’s stunned look* Oh yea, she was a regular demon that one. Piece of f*cking work . Heaps of trouble. Started off in the nasty gothic stage wearing black and hideous clothing. Then started in with the whole self mutilation thing. Ugg, what a little b*tch. A real slut too. She had 4 miscarriages!
My face was of complete horror I’m sure, and she had moved between Damon and I, with her back to Damon thankfully because Damon’s face was amazing. It conveyed ‘wtf, confusion, horror, amazement and the desperate need to leave immediately’ but there was no leaving at this point, we were trapped and she was not done yet*
SK: Oh yea, and that’s not the half of it. She did every drug imaginable, drank like nothing else, had all sorts of nasty STI’s (same as std’s) and hated me. At least 4 times a day she’d tell me she’d like to cut my throat and watch me bleed to death. Nasty girl. Say “b*tch, I should kill you!” Oh she was awful.
I can’t even remember what in the world I was thinking at this point except for exit strategies.
Me: *stammering a slight bit* Oh, god, I’m so sorry. That must have been tough. But she has kids now? It’s all better?
SK: Oh yes! Love the children, it’s so much better this way.
Somehow I we got on the topic of the shop thankfully. Or so I thought.
Me: So do you guys get a lot of people here for the museum?
SK: Oh yes, lots of tourists, but those Asians, they are awful! They come in here 8 at time. Two of them will occupy your attention asking questions and the rest will just help themselves just like that! I turn around and then they’re gone. Stupid Chinese.
Me: *completely floored again, no words come to mind except “you’re kidding” and I don’t know if that was referring to the fact that people steal, or she was blatantly that racist*
SK: Oh yes, completely. So you know what I do know?
Damon and I: *shake our heads*
SK: When I see ‘em coming, I just up and lock the door! Closed! Heaps better that way.
Me: Well, I guess closing the door would help for sure... but yea... we need to get going, long drive ahead of us.
SK: Of course, where are you off to?
Me: Christchurch, we’re at uni there
SK: Blech! I hate it there! To crazy, I feel more on holiday here at the shop then there! You go to put your blinker on like a decent person for a spot, and some dumb bloke will just up and cut in front of you taking your damn spot just like that! Damn inconsiderate them city people.
Me: Oh, don’t come to the states then. If you think Christchurch is stressful, you’d have some issues in the US.
And that was that, we peaced out like there was no tomorrow. No lie, we almost ran. But now looking back on the whole ordeal, I question if Sock World was really that amazing or if it was actually the encounter with crazy.

Crazy before we knew she was Crazy. That is a sausage of socks.
After that, we went on a bathroom adventure to the beach where there were some public bathrooms. Boy had the rain picked up since we met up with Mrs. Crazy. I swear it almost ripped the door of the Lime, but I took off at a jog to the Tasman Sea. It was wicked out there. Terribly huge waves, an angry ocean. The sky was gun metal and the ocean dusky brown and grey. As stopped to watch, the wind whipped cold rain on my face under my hood and pebbles onto my exposed legs. It actually hurt to stand there. But Damon and I did the obligatory toe dip into the sea as does any person who approaches a strange ocean and booked it back to the car without a second look.
I had a long night prior, as had Damon and after all of this madness, we were tired. We found the only parking lot in the only grocery store in town, the New World and parked. There we slept for an hour. A glorious hour. Then up again and out on the town for some food stuffs. Om nom nom. It was Purdy’s fush and chups for dinnah!
The original plan was to eat dinner then at 7:30 we’d hike to a glow worm cave just off the highway home. But it was pouring so we drove home. The way home was tough, it was really rainy and with all the turns it was a little scary at times. But Damon kicked butt driving. Once we got through the pass, like magic the skies cleared. We stopped at least three times to pull over and check out the amazing stars. I remember when I was younger out west looking at the stars thinking there were so many. But I swear, there were millions more that night. You could see the band of the milky way so much more distinct than I have ever seen. Even more than that night in Kaikora. It was just so amazing.
I had so much fun on that car ride, we listened to oodles of country music. I think the ‘redneck’ playlist was my favourite. Had some classics on it. My personal favourites were International Harvester and Fishin in the Dark. The chorus to International Harvester is so catchy!
Cause I’m a son of a 3rd generation farmer
I’ve been married 10 years to a farmer’s daughter
I got two boys in the county 4-H
I’m a lifetime sponsor of the F.F.A.
Hay! That’s what I make
I make a lot of hay for a little pay
But I’m proud to say
I’m a God fearin’ hard workin’ combine driver
Hoggin’ up the road on my p-p-p-plower
Chug a lug a lugin’ 5 miles an hour
On my International Harvester
While enjoying this fun country marathon we decided that it would be awesome if we just kept driving after we got back to churchur to Sumner so we could say we went coast to coast! We got into the city around 10:30 which wasn’t too bad, but we didn’t get to the beach till about 11:45 because we got stupid lost. Heaps lost bro. After our toe dip in the low low low tide we ran back and headed back to our beds. But yea, we got really lost again and didn’t get back until past 12:30. But it was worth it for sure. Because today was our day of spontaneity, country, why not’s and crazy. A highlight of my trip for sure!
Click here for photo-fixation!